Following on from our Where to eat in Ponta Delgada guide, if you’re exploring outside of the capital we have a handy series on Where to eat on Sao Miguel. Here’s our guide on where to eat on the south coast…
One of our favourite towns on the south coast is Vila Franca do Campo. Founded in 15th century, Vila was Sao Miguel’s original capital, until the great earthquake of 1522 devastated the town (Azorean priest and historian Gaspar Frutuoso wrote a contemporary account the tragic event is called ‘O romance de Vila Franca’). Vila’s a small, friendly place with the Igreja Matriz de São Miguel Arcanjo at one end and Praia de Vinha d’Areia beach at the other. Bar Vinha d’Areia is ideally located if you’re spending a day at the beach: good for fresh lapas (limpets), shrimps, cold beers and marvellous sunsets.
Over at Vila Franca’s popular marina – if you’re just looking for a quick bite to eat before heading to sea on a whale and dolphin watching trip, the Marina Bar serves freshly made sandwiches, tosta mista, soups, cakes and coffee all day long.
Popping up the steps from the marina, lookout for the Do Morgado bakery where Sao Miguel’s most popular queijadas are made. Queijadas are a traditional Portuguese tartlet – the recipe varies from island to island, but one of my favourite variations are baked right here in Vila Franca. If you’re thinking of gifts for family and friends, a box of queijadas normally travels quite well. The distinctive green Do Morgado circular logo points the way to their café and bakery shop.
The Restaurante Atlantico is just beyond the marina, overlooking the boathouses and workshops at the southern end of town. Their menu’s for fish lovers – stick with the seasonal specials and you won’t be disappointed. If you’re reserving in advance, request a table on the roof terrace, overlooking the extinct ilheu de Vila Franca volcano just off shore.
One of the town’s most-impressive restaurant spaces is the Mercado da Vila. Vila Franca’s old fish market has been repurposed as an open-plan restaurant, with a friendly relaxed atmosphere. The menu isn’t exclusively Azorean – the restaurant’s four chefs use fresh local ingredients with strong influences from Italy, Mexico and Switzerland. The service is spot on, and it’s also great to see this impressive industrial architecture being given a new life.
The Black Whale Restaurant is in the centre of Vila – downstairs has a very modern feel, whilst upstairs in the eaves the decor is a bit more rustic and homely. The food is pleasently similar – a traditional menu with a home-cooked feel.
It’s short drive west along the coast road from Vila Franca to Casa do Abel in the town of Agua de Pau. You’re certainly in no danger of missing Casa do Abel – it’s conspicuous signage will make quite sure of that. Casa do Abel is beef all the way – a steakhouse that’s proved incredibly popular since opening it’s doors in 2017.
Sadly Abel passed away not long ago, but his food legacy lives on through his three restaurants: Casa do Abel, Bar Caloura and Boca Aberta.
Casa do Abel’s sister-restaurant Bar Caloura is located the small fishing village of the same name. It’s always been a big favourite of ours – one of the island’s best, sea-to-table fish restaurants overlooking the small harbour in this peaceful fishing village. If you’re staying at Quinta do Mar during your holiday, you’ll definitely spend a few memorable evenings at Bar Caloura.
Adega Caloura is a welcome new addition to the village. Located just across the road from Bar Caloura (beneath Casa Grande), Adega doesn’t offer the same sea views but there’s a welcome cosiness to the traditional architecture. The menu is quite limited but that’s usually a good sign as you’re eating fresh and seasonal – the reviews from our friends in Caloura are all extremely positive and we’re looking forward to visiting ourselves later in the year.
If you’re staying at the western end of the village at Casa das Pedras, Casa Jardim or the Caloura Resort Hotel, the Restaurante Dragoeiro is a short stroll along the high-walled country lanes. The deco is modern with a menu to match – Azorean chefs are becoming increasingly aware that their island’s excellent maritime produce lends itself to great sushi. Remember to take along a torch for your walk home.
Leaving Caloura and continuing along the west coast – as you pass through Lagoa, following its tree-lined main street, take a left down towards swimming pools on the coast and you’ll find BocAberta. This is (Casa do) Abel’s third restaurant, with a specific focus on seasonal Azorean fish dishes paired with wonderful Portuguese wines, and their oceanview terrace is a lovely spot (particularly in the evening).
Just beyond Lagoa’s small harbour is the Restaurante Ondas do Mar. It doesn’t quite have the seaviews of Bar Caloura or O Capitao, but if you’re staying at the beautiful Casa da Rocha Quebrada or at Whites Villas it’s a great restaurant right on your doorstep:
One of Sao Miguel’s most popular beaches is at Praia da Populo, and its most popular restaurant is the Sunset Beach. If you’re spending a day at Populo, it’s an excellent option for lunch- especially if you have little ones as you can walk in straight off the beach.
Approaching Sao Roque and the eastern suburbs of the capital Ponta Delgada, the Forte Terrace is a new restaurant, built within the ruins of the 17th century Fort of Sao Francisco Xavier de Rosto de Cao. Old and new sit side-by-side – the restaurant is a contemporary glass/steel box, whilst the remains of the forte have been carefully secured, creating a cosy suntrap terrace. The menu is modern Azorean, and their deserts look as good as they taste – they also have an extensive selection of gins.
Our Where to eat guides are based on our first-hand experiences and our love of great Portuguese cuisine:
Where to eat in Ponta Delgada
Our Ponta Delgada Food Tour
Where to eat on Sao Miguel – Sete Cidades and the west
Where to eat on Sao Miguel – the north coast
Where to eat on Sao Miguel – Furnas and the east
Where to eat on Sao Miguel – the south coast
Where to eat in Angra
Where to eat on Terceira
Where to eat in Horta
Where to eat on Faial
Where to eat on Sao Jorge
Where to eat on Pico
Where to eat on Flores, Corvo, Santa Maria and Graciosa
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