Where to eat in Horta

Back in the 16th and 17th centuries, the tiny island of Faial was a highly valued resupply point for Portuguese ships trading in gold and spices. Ships laden with ginger, black pepper, cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg passed through the port of Horta, and this influx of exotic flavours is still reflected today in many of the island’s traditional recipes.

Fast forward to the 1800s and a new trans-Atlantic telegraph system was connecting Europe with the USA and Canada. The convergence of telegraph workers from both sides of the Atlantic saw a clash of tastes, as the incomers mixed recipes from home with those of their Faialense hosts. Modern day Faial still celebrates it’s mid-Atlantic position and it’s maritime heritage, and the Faialense continue to keep a creative eye on the outside world – whilst embracing seasonality and good local produce to the full.

Here’s our handy guide on where to eat in Horta.

Overlooking the bay at Porto Pim, Genuino’s is friendly, laid-back restaurant owned by Azorean sailing legend Genuino Madruga. Setting sail in October 2000, he became the first Portuguese sailor to circumnavigate the globe solo, returning to Horta almost two years later in May 2002. He did it again in 2007, sailing east to west this time and returning in 2009. The restaurant has a strong maritime theme – a museum celebrating Genino’s sailing achievements. As you’d expect, the menu includes some excellent fish dishes: Gambas Rosadas (prawns), Polvo a Lagareiro (octopus), Goraz (bream), Bife de Espadarte (swordfish steak) and their signature Almondegas de Atum (tuna meatballs with a sweet potato puree). Senhor Madruga is usually on-hand to greet you when you arrive. Genuinos The Taberna de Pim is just across the narrow road. It’s a good evening venue for petiscos and a beer, especially if you can snag a table on the terrace outside (inside is pretty snug). You can’t prebook, but like a taberna of old their turnaround is pretty quick. If you’re staying at the Porto Pim Apartments, you’ve got the Taberna and Genuino’s right on your doorstep. Taberna de Pim A short walk along the Rua Nova brings to you the Restaurante Canto da Doca. You’re the chef, cooking your food to your own taste on a hot stones in the centre of the table. Steak, chicken, swordfish, shrimps, squid – with accompanying sauces, salads and sides. I wouldn’t say it’s the best food in town, but it’s fun for an evening with friends , with an excellent selection of Pico wines: Frei Gigante, Terras do Lava and Faria’s. Canto da doca The revamped Restaurant Atletico has reopened and is looking better than ever. Hidden behind its hole in the wall Rua Filipe Carvalho, the Atletico has been fully refurbished, particularly outside where it’s much more spacious than it used to be. Menu-wise, it’s still a solid selection of Azorean favourites, particularly fresh local fish.

Restaurant Atletico The arrival of low-cost airlines in the Azores has allowed restaurateurs from across the islands to spend more time on the mainland. Taking inspiration from their fellow chefs in Lisbon and Porto, there’s a whole new generation of cooks turning the traditional Azorean cookbook on its head to create vibrant and exciting modern Faialense cuisine. One such example is the Gastro Bar Principe – they’re mixing seasonal fish and locally-reared beef with aromatic rices, seaweed and laurel, whilst their thoughtfully presented vegetarian and vegan dishes embrace the best of the island’s home-grown produce. Their pineapple crumble is also exceptional. They’re one street over from Atletico, heading up towards the hospital on the Estrada Monico.

Gastor Principe Moving into the centre of Horta – arguably the most famous eatery in the Azores is Peter Cafe Sport. Peter’s opened its doors in 1918, and current owner Jose Henrique Azevedo is the third generation of his family to manage the bar. His grandfather christianed the buisness ‘Café Sport’, but the ‘Peter’ came later: it was Jose’s father’s nickname during his war service on the RMS Lusitana. The menu is fairly traditional Azorean – lapas (limpets), bife da terra (steak, with a whisky sauce or a rum sauce), polvo (octopus) and chicharros fritos (fried mackerel). A victim of its own popularity, it can be pretty cramped inside in the evenings – there are often tables available on the terrace across the road, where you can sip your G&T with a view of Mount Pico.

Peter Cafe Sport Cantinho das Provas was the brainchild of local couple Mariana Silveira and Franz Hutschenreuter. Their initial success came when they introduced Sushi to Horta – the perfect showcase for Azorean yellow fin tuna. They’re now offering a broader range of imaginative dishes – what hasn’t changed is their skill in pairing the perfect Pico wines with your chosen dish. Popping back onto the seafront Avenida 25 de Abril, look out for the A Padaria Avenida (on your left-hand side) – their freshly baked pastries and breads are fabulous; your chance to sample a fofa without travelling to Povoacao: fofa’s are a bit like an éclair, but the dough mix includes fennel seeds and sometimes a lemon zest cream.

A Padaria Avenida Horta’s Mercado Municipal is a good option place to shop for fresh produce, although you need to get there early for the best of the fruit and veg. A roof was added as part of a recent renovation, giving the market more of a food court vibe. Cantina da Praca is the largest restaurant – they’re particularly popular for their fish soup and a killer chocolate desert. They’re also open for dinner, after the market has closed. Caintina da Praca Ah! Boca Santa is a snack bar inside the market – they serve tasty homemade beef, pork and veggie burgers, sweet potato fries, chicken wraps, and freshly squeezed fruit juices. The service is spot-on, and they’re an good option for a takeaway lunch if you’re planning any self-guided hikes – but be sure to order your picnic twenty-four hours in advance.