Water is ubiquitous in the Azores – from the dramatic crater lakes of Sete Cidades, to the tumbling waterfalls of Faja Grande – with the ever-present Atlantic Ocean as a backdrop. Azoreans adore swimming in the sea, and following a summer of island-hopping, Lucy Beney has also become a champion of the joys of the Balnearios…
Which is it for you, the sea or a swimming pool? Throughout the Azores, you can have the benefits of both at the same time. The islands have perfected balnearios – which offer the fun, freedom and pleasure of open water swimming, along with the comfort and convenience of a pool.
Around the islands’ coasts, natural rock pools have been absorbed into accessible and safe swimming areas. The in-the-water experience is very much ocean bathing, with waves breaking on the lava shoreline, glorious deep blue water and the constant ebb and flow of the Atlantic swell through gaps in the rocks
Many offer good snorkelling opportunities. The out-of-water experience is gentler than the rugged geography would otherwise allow. There is easy access via steps or paths, and the pools have levelled, paved surrounds, ideal for sunbathing. Many have showers and during high season, some have lifeguards.
Inevitably, some balnearios offer a wilder swimming experience than others. My introduction to a piscina natural came eight years ago at Ponta da Ferraria, on the southwest coast of São Miguel. It was October, a big surf was running, and we needed to hold on tight to the handily-placed ropes across the mouth of the inlet. It was more suction than swim, but no less glorious for that.
This contrasts nicely with the pool system at Varadouro on the south coast of Faial, where swimmers are almost completely protected from the wind and waves, whatever the weather.
Other balnearios are effectively sheltered harbours, with great swimming in the right weather conditions, but in the aftermath of a storm, the situation could be very different.
Two of my favourite swimming spots are at Fajã Grande on the western coast of Flores…
…and at the Zona Balnear do Pocinho on the western coast of Pico.
Both offer swimming perfection against a stunning backdrop at their best, but can be very wild and windy when the weather changes. There can occasionally be other hazards too – most notably, the odd navigationally-challenged jellyfish. But please come on in, the water is lovely year-round.
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