Faja do Belo Kuanza

Azoreans have remote down to a fine art, and Faja do Belo Kuanza is one of the best examples.

The traditional stone houses of Faja do Belo sit tentatively between green volcanic cliffs and the restless  Atlantic Ocean, with only the sound of  the waves to disturb the calm isolation which defines life on Sao Jorge’s coastal fajas. Faja do Belo was once home to a close-knit farming community, where land and sea sustained life. Access was always difficult due to the steep nature of Sao Jorge’s coastal terrain, and residents were frequently  cut off by landslides and rough seas during the winter months.

A devastating earthquake on New Years Day in 1980 brought an infinitely more dramatic separation, destroying paths and leaving the three settlements of Faja da Caldeira do Santo Cristo, Faja dos Cubres, and Faja do Belo isolated from the rest island, and from one another. Some residents decided not to rebuild, choosing instead to relocate, and the fajas were almost abandoned. The reinstated PR1 walking trail links the three settlements once again, and modern-day tourism has largely replaced agriculture as the main source of income. Visitors are drawn from across Europe by Faja do Belo’s off-grid atmosphere, where modern life feels a long way away.

Whether you’re arriving by taxi or by hire car, your motorised journey ends where the tarmac road ends at Faja dos Cubres. From here, it’s a beautiful twenty-minute coastal walk through a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve – a rather special introduction to this remote corner of the Azores, and don’t worry: your luggage will be transported separately by quad bike.

As Faja do Belo Kuanza comes into view, you’ll see the nine houses are traditional in their exterior design; once you check-in, you’ll see they’re thoroughly modern within. However, that’s as far as the conventional facilities go – instead, the appeal lies in the setting and the opportunity to spend a few days in one of the most secluded locations in Europe. You’re also self-catering, which is part of the experience – we’ll include a visit to the supermercado enroute so you can shop for supplies.

Once you’ve settled in, there’s plenty to explore on foot. The trail continues along the coast to the famous lagoon at Santo Cristo, which may come to feel like a metropolis compared to Belo, thanks to its two tiny, welcoming taverns. Santo Cristo’s ameijoas clams are coveted across Portugal – the taverns serve them ‘at source’, where food miles are measured in feet and inches.